Slim Aarons, 1957
Whenever a subculture willingly agrees to dress alike it is simply an accepted group style. But when a pre-fromed identity is thrust upon individuals unwillingly, it is a uniform. All uniforms suppress individuality. By wearing the uniform, the wearer enters into the an overdetermined form. The values expressed by the uniform are neutral, standard and submissive, pleasing to the establishment.
Fred Wilson, Guarded View, 1991: Wilson dressed black male mannequins in the uniforms worn by the museum guards at four preeminent New York City museums, commenting on the selective African American presence in the museums.
Longchamp F 2009
Vanessa Beecroft, VB 39, 1999
The uniform is a direct association with power which can bring status to the powerless. This is the case with military uniforms, which are worn with pride. Historically drafted soldiers were too poor to afford the best clothing. The uniform not only unified the soldiers but gave them a sense of personal esteem.
Galliano, S 2009
Warhol, Camouflage Double, 1987
"V-Bay" editorial, V magazine 42
Steven Meisel, "State of Emergency," Italian Vogue, 2005
Ellen Von Unwerth, Italian Vogue 
Matthew Barney, Cremaster 1, 1995
Ralph Lauren for Wimbeldon, top 2009 and bottom 2008
Martin Margiela's lab coat uniform for shop employees
Burberry, F 2009
The worker's uniform is a sign of submission. The worker must submit all desire and individuality to less than attractive clothing. It aims to make them invisible, as if to hide their work from the leisure class. But the uniformed worker is a moment of truth of capitalism, the dark shadow of self-directed desire fulfillment as contingent on the oppression of others.
Jeff Wall, Cleaning Man at Barcelona Pavilion, 1999
0 comments:
Post a Comment